Recently I had the happy occasion to be planning a trip to Europe and wanted to treat myself to a quick stopover somewhere interesting (as opposed to the oh-so-dull LAX transit lounge). During a water cooler conversation with our Malaysian Art Director, Jae Sern, Kuala Lumpur presented itself as a possibility. But with only a single day to apply to my half-way destination, what could Kuala Lumpur offer?
Kuala Lumpur is not always a destination that tops the list of ‘must-visit’ places. But this is changing with a growing confidence in the cultural melee that is modern Malaysia. Nowhere is this more evident than in Kuala Lumpur which directly translates as ‘muddy confluence’. Indeed the city is located at the confluence of two rivers, the Sungai Gombak and Sungai Kuala Lumpurang (Kuala Lumpurang River). But it’s not just the rivers that merge in this vibrant city. There’s a true mixture of East and West, traditional and modern, Christian, Hindu and Muslim. Adding to the cultural colour experienced by Western tourists, Malaysia is officially an Islamic state, adding a certain excitement on landing at the airport: You are reminded that smuggling drugs into Malaysia is punishable by death!
A relatively young city, Kuala Lumpur’s history began in the 1850’s as a mining town and frontier trading post. Being positioned on the convergence of two rivers has its difficulties and following the destruction of the city by major flooding in the 1880’s it was decreed by the British Resident at the time that all buildings should be constructed with brick and tile. This is responsible for the distinct ‘shop house’ architecture which is still evident in the older parts of Kuala Lumpur today.
As with all young, ethnically diverse cultures, Kuala Lumpur has continued to experience political and racial activity in the masses. Even in the last couple of years there have been two massive political rallies. From my point of view, this makes the place more attractive, not less. There’s an energy about a society that still believes it has the right to demand change noisily!
However, I have only allowed myself one day in my stopover destination. So I challenged our Kuala Lumpur champion to come up with a focus for my one-day stopover. Where can I go in Kuala Lumpur to get the essence of the city? After only a short hesitation he suggested the dazzling Petronas Twin Towers in the heart Kuala Lumpur.
Giving some of the best views of the city, Petronas Twin Towers was built over four years and completed in 1996. The towers were for a while the tallest buildings in the world which was an important moment to Malays. “It’s a proud landmark which shows the progress of Malaysia as a nation and helped put us on the map for a while as the country with the tallest buildings in the world,” says Sern.
The Petronas Twin Towers was designed by world renowned architect Cesar Pelli and former Dean of Yale University's School of Architecture. His other works include the Canary Wharf, London; World Financial Centre, Manhattan and Carnegie Hall Tower, New York City - an impressive stable to be associated with.
Pelli’s brief was to create “a masterpiece that would embody the strength of Malaysia, the culture of its people and the corporate aspirations of Petronas”. However, interestingly, it was never specified that the building should be (for a while at least) the "tallest building in the world", only that it be distinctive.
The result is more than distinctive. Not only was it the tallest building in the world, but it also encapsulates the character of modern-day Malaysia. "For the Petronas Twin Towers, I tried to express the essences of the country. The building is rooted in tradition, but it is mostly about Malaysia's aspiration and ambition," said Pelli.
So what should you do on a day-trip to the Petronas Twin Towers (known to the locals as Kuala Lumpur City Centre, or KLCC)? According to Sern, all the major cultural events are celebrated here.
“As Malaysia is a diverse country with people of all sorts of backgrounds and race, we have various celebrations throughout the year. KLCC is always decorated accordingly. At Chinese New Year Lion/Dragon dances are hosted. At Hari Raya (Aidilfitri) there are cultural performances and stalls with local delicacies are set up inside the mall. For the Indian festival of Deepavali a huge Kolaam (an intricate Indian decoration of coloured dyed rice) is laid out on the ground to form beautiful patterns in the centre of the mall. At Christmas a huge eight-storey Christmas tree is erected in the centre of the mall.”
But it’s not just cultural events that are cause for celebration at KLCC. New Year sees a beautiful fireworks display. Be prepared, this really draws the crowds and apparently the streets around KLCC are completely packed. National Day is celebrated with base jumpers leaping off the sky bridge that links the two towers.
Aside from the events, there is a huge shopping centre called Suria KLCC. Covering six levels and including over 270 stores and cinemas, restaurants and open air areas this is a spectacular mall. Natural light floods down through glimpses up through the centre of the towers to the rooftops. Even if shopping isn’t your thing, the people watching opportunities are worth the effort. To KLCC residents it’s the hub of the city.
“Because it’s in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, it’s an easily accessible place cause most of my friends work in the city and transport there is easy. So we usually meet up there for food/drinks or catch a movie or to go shop together,” says Sern.
Every tourist visiting KLCC should experience the sky bridge. To manage the traffic, there’s a complicated system of buying tickets to go up in the lift in which you are allocated a particular timeslot. But it’s worth the wait. According to Sern the views are spectacular. “The park is a beautiful scene as are the various buildings in Kuala Lumpur, which are a mixture of new ultra modern buildings and old historic buildings dating back hundreds of years old.”
Sern recommends that visitors don’t restrict themselves to the inside of KLCC.
“Go around the outside of the towers and take in the majestic architecture and the size and awe of it up close. You should also take a walk in the park beside KLCC....there are huge playgrounds and a mini water park for the children to enjoy.”
To Sern, KLCC represents all that he’s proud of as a Malaysian. “It’s a hodge-podge of different people and that’s the beauty of Malaysia. It's a melting pot of culture.”